Seaward Fox Broken Bow Fitting

During a late October 2015 sail in my 1990 Seaward Fox, "ARROGANCE", a forceful gybe snapped my bow fitting. If it wasn't for a tethered clevis pin and sail lines leading to the cockpit, I would of lost the mast. I immediately dropped the sails and went forward. The weld broke on the fitting. A temporary fix was made by use of a diamond pad eye. Researching the original fitting, I found it to be a RaceLite RL-387. Contacted the company (http://www.racelitehardware.com), who are very cooperative. They were VERY surprised Hake/Seaward used this fitting, clearly not designed for the load put upon it. They sent me a RL-587 (free of charge) by express mail. The RL-587 is much heavier. I installed the new bow fitting, backing it up with 1/4" aluminum plate under the deck and using 1/4" x 20 SS machine screws and associated hardware (washer, lock washer and nut). I did cut the bow strap off the old fitting and reinstalled it for cosmetic purposes.

The broken Bow Fitting:

The temporary fix...Diamond Pad Eye:

The damaged Bow Fitting in the workshop:

 Cutting the Bow Strap off the Fitting:

 Installation of the new RL-587 Bow Fitting:

The RL-587 Bow Fitting:

Starwind 223 'PERFECTION' 2012 Pull Out (09/01/2012)

This is a video of PERFECTION (Starwind 223 sailboat) Pull Out on 09/01/2012. Due to some engine problems, I decided to pull her out early and put my Seaward Fox 'Arrogance' in the water the next day to finish out the 2012 Sailing Season. On this day, there was no wind, no current and the water was as smooth as glass. It was the easiest pull out I have ever had with PERFECTION. Unfortunately there is no sound to the video.

 

Enjoy the youtube video.
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XC55WV2xHs

Seaward Fox 'ARROGANCE' End of Season Pullout

With Hurricane Sandy (Nickname: Franken Storm) threatening the mid-Atlantic and Northeast in a few days, sailing season came to an early end for me and many others. 'ARROGANCE', my SeaWard Fox 17, was pulled out on October 26, 2012. In the shorten video, 'ARROGANCE' approaches the dock as my son assists while I jump off and head for the truck and trailer to retrieve her. The 2 white, 2 inch, 10 foot long, PVC Pipes extending from the trailer at about 15 degrees, form a nice guide that centers 'ARROGANCE'. With a shoal keel with a wing, centering is very important. In a few moments she is on the trailer, hooked up and up the ramp we go to the tie down area.

 

Here's the youtube video:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Eh8SCztn4

Waterproof/Sandproof Tablet Protector

Tablets have become very popular. They are of great personnal value and have found there way into my "sailing go bag'. My choice for a Tablet was the Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7.0. It was the right size for me Not too big and not too small. And with the expandable external memory, I looked no further. I am able to load a host of Android 'apps' for sailing, weather, music, ebooks and other interests. The best part I am able to load a mega volume of pictures and video for my viewing pleasure. I am also to transfer them on the go.  I am quite sure six months down the road there will be something for the consumer.

 

But the big question is how do you protect your Tablet from the elements onboard a sailboat? I found the perfect cover from Staples, the office supply store. It sells as the 'travelocity Waterproof/Sandproof Tablet Protector. The watertight seal with three zip lock closures and a velcro style hook and loop feature prevents water from seeping in. The price was just right at $10. I did compare those sold on eBay and their prices were very close.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The one option the 'travelocity Waterproof Case' had that sold me was the 'Watertight Auxillary Port'. This allow you to plug your tablet's 'Aux Port' to use your earbuds or your boats sound sytem without worrying about your tablet getting damaged by the elements. The package does include the warning, 'Not to be submerged underwater for an extended period of time.'

Using the tablet in this plastic case was not an issue. My fingertip pressure transferred to the tablet with ease. It was as though I was touching the screen directly. I was also able to turn and shut off the Tablet without problems.

Having a 7 inch Tablet, I decided to go for the larger size case. One that was designed for 9-10 inch Tablets. This allowed me a greater ease of stowing the tablet when inserting or removing from the case. It also gives me room for another small piece of electronic gear such as a cell phone or other personnal effects.



Seaward Fox; ARROGANCE's Outboard Motor and Mount Change

When I purchased ARROGANCE in 2006, she came with a Honda 2hp and a stationary outboard motor mount. Before the first sail had ended I found having no reverse (The Honda swings 360 degrees), the fixed outboard (OB) motor mount and being a little under power, issues that I wanted to resolve as soon as possible.

The original Honda 2hp and stationary OB mount with my youngest son (Who is now 6'2" in 2012! Times fly!). 

Luckily the resolutions to the issues were at little or no cost for me having nearly all that I needed in my personal 'sailboat warehouse'. I had a like new 1982 Evinrude 4.5hp outboard with F-N-R and an external fuel tank and an adjustable OB motor mount (rated up to 25hp) stored away.

The change of the OB motor mount was a little tight under the cockpit but fairly easy, being able able to use the existing holes through the hull. I did beef up the inside by using 1/4" aluminum plate and shaping a 2" x 8" piece of pressure treated lumber on the outside as a spacer between the OB motor mount and the hull for the the new stainless steel bolts to run through. A quality sealant was used both inside and outside. As for the OB mount's 'board', I removed the original and cut a new one out of clear 2" x8" pressure treated lumber, taking 3" off its original height. This would allow for the Evinrude to be further in the water since it was not a long shaft like the Honda.

The Evinrude and the adjustable OB mount on the starboard side of ARROGANCE. Notice the depth of the prop and can be lowered even further while being able to be pulled completely out of the water while under sail. I placed a through hull to handle the fuel line. You can view that in an earlier post on this same blog.

Side views of the shortened OB mount board.

Original OB mount board.

The shortened OB mount board I made from 'clear' 2" x 8" pressure treated lumber. Multiple holes on either side allow for any additional vertical adjustment. Larger hole in center is for the spring from the adjustable OB motor mount. I placed a stainless steel washer at its bottom for the spring.

I am very satisfied with my modifications. These changes were made several years ago but I am just posting them now. The overall weight is slightly more but not harming any performance. No issues of swinging the outboard 180 degrees for reverse. Life's a lot simpler when it comes to docking or at the launch ramp. I know later models of the 'Fox' come with a motor mount on the rudder. I see that as an overall negative. Mine is mounted on the starboard side which meant that I rearranged items I store below to compensate for this. Overall it makes more sense.

Project: Bobbin; The English Sailing Dinghy

My latest project is restoration of a Bobbin, an English Sailing Dinghy. This Bobbin was manufactured in the very early 1970’s by Pearson Brothers of Arundel, West Sussex, England. Only a thousand were built till they went out of production around 1980. This Bobbin has sail number 586. The Bobbin still has a very active sailing community in England to this day.

The Bobbin is hull is of hand laid fiberglass with a length of 9ft 2in, a beam of 50in and weighs a mere 80lbs. The dagger board is of laminated mahogany, painted. The tiller and kick-up rudder is of mahogany board. The mast is two piece aluminum with a height of 15ft 2in. The sail setup is of a sloop with a tanbark color jib and mainsail. The original owner used the Bobbin as a rowing dinghy. In fact, sails, sailing hardware and control lines were still in their original packing.

Before Pictures:

The restoration has included a complete refinishing of the hull. I have repainted the exterior of the hull white and the interior an almond/off white. All paints applied are marine polyurethane. The gunwales are made of fiberglass which showed a flexing because of age. I have reinforced either side of the gunwales with white oak rub rails. They are now very rigid. They have been stained. The fiberglass top of the gunwales, water line and bottom are painted a burgundy.

After Pictures:

The Bobbin will be a perfect compliment with one of my larger sailboats to be used as a dinghy in tow or hung on a pair of davits. With a weight of 80lbs and a storing mast/boom that fit within the hull, storage of its sailing gear is not a problem. Since the Bobbin is so portable, car topping would be easy and taking it to a nearby mountain lake or the bay would be an adventure of its own.

Sailing Season 2012-Sailing ARROGANCE

Sailing ARROGANCE
ARROGANCE was launched on April 1st. I decided to launch ARROGANCE (my Seaward Fox) for the first part of the sailing season. Main reason was that I made a lot of modifications over the winter and decided it was time to try them all out. So far the decision hasn't been a disappointment. I'll swap her for PERFECTION around Memorial Day for the lazy summer sailing and put ARROGANCE back in for the fall winds.

From my pickup, a view of towing ARROGANCE.

At the launch. View from atop the cabin looking to the bow.

View looking to the stern with the mast crutch.

Launching on a windy day was without any surprises.

ARROGANCE at her slip.

A bow topside view.

Head on bow pulpit view.

ARROGANCE Modifications for 2012

Evinrude 4.5hp Outboard

Repowering with a 4.5hp Evinrude (1982 model and hardly ever used.) versus the Honda 2hp she came with.  The reason was  because of the F-N-R capability of the Evinrude versus the need to physically swing the Honda 180 degree for reverse and the additional horse power also. Hardly any difference in weight. The adjustable outboard motor mount, no issues regarding shaft length. The external 3 gallon fuel tank slips under the one cockpit seat. That 3 gallons should last me all season.

Through Hull Fitting for Fuel Line

I did added a through hull fitting made from PVC pipe to run the fuel line through the the transom.

Cockpit view of PVC through hull.

Diameter of PVC is large enough so the fuel fitting will easily pass through to outboard.

Fuel line passing through to outboard.

LED Lighting

The lighting, both interior and exterior has been switched over to LED lighting. Big power savings. I've added a solar collector for the gel cell battery recharging.  I also added shore power hook up so if need be I can also use a small generator.

Control Lines for Sails

All the sail control lines lead back to the cockpit so there is very little need to go forward other than leaving or returning to the dock. Lines are color coded of course. The lazy jack lines on the main sail are fantastic. No more be covered by the main sail when dropping it. Needless to say, the cockpit is clutter free.

Bimini

A bimini was also a new addition. My first mate will enjoy the shade. When stowed it leans back against the stern out of the way.

Turnbuckle Covers from PVC Pipe

I added turnbuckle covers made out of PVC pipe. Very easy and economical to make versus purchasing. All one needs to do is decide on the diameter needed, length of pipe and drill a hole through the pipe cap to thread the stay through. Do Not Glue! Easier on the sails, lines and toes.

The open Turnbuckle

Electrical PVC Conduit for the body and PVC Cap

The finished cover. Note the hole in the PVC Cap. This allows one to easily slide the PVC Turnbuckle Cover for checking the Turnbuckle and cotter rings.

The completed PVC Turnbuckle Cover.

Sailing ARROGANCE in 2012

Sailing has been fantastic. The April weather has been less than perfect conditions we had in March.

Stanchion Cam

I mounted a digital camera to take videos on board while under sail. To do so, I attached a small tripod to the lifeline stanchions on both the stern port and starboard sides. I found the tripods at Dollar Tree. Great price...$1 a piece. As for attaching to the stanchions, I used plastic electrical tape. Yes, very low tech  but they do a fantastic job! Just to make sure I wouldn't lose the camera overboard by accident, I attached it's lanyard to the lifeline. 

The videos that follow are from the stanchion cam.

The videos (Click both to Play at once).

ARROGANCE on a nice run:

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHvfi4jQYvs&list=FLikVyqK_OOXgJo-xzuoMrJg&index=17&feature=plpp_video)

and me, At The Helm:

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSMPLQxHWR8&feature=relmfu)

Kayak Trailer for a Bicycle (Mountain Bike) Made from Aluminum Crutches

My oldest son loves kayaking and bicycling.  There is a beautiful lake not far from our home that he often frequents with his kayak or bicycles to and from.  For him to kayak, it ultimately requires waiting for his mom or me to provide transportation, tossing the kayak atop the car, strapping it down and driving him over there.  It's not that we don't want to, but for lean, muscular teenager, waiting for transportation from mom or dad, can be frustrating.

I built him a kayak trailer from used aluminum crutches (2 pair (4 crutches)) purchased from the Goodwill.  They were purchased for less than $4 a pair.  Aluminum crutches are consist of 1" and 1/2" diameter tubing.  The crutches were taken apart and all piece parts saved.  One pair was bent with a tube/pipe bender to make the main frame portion.  Wheel and pneumatic tire assemblies were bought from Harbor Freight for another $4 each.  The trailer tongue was fashioned from a crutch and bolted to the main frame.  A 1" diameter dowell was inserted into the end of the tongue, so a 1" diameter eye bolt could be screwed into the end to form the trailer portion of the hitch.

The spare parts from the crutch were used as padded supports on the main frame as shown.  An old bow pad was drilled with a 1" spade bit to allow it to be slid down the trailer tongue for additioal support of the kayak.

Two pieces of 1/2 " metal electrical conduit 24" long were placed on the lower portion of the bicycle frame.  To hold in place I used stainless steel 2" adjustable hose clamps (2 each).  Above either side the the rear axle of the bicycle frame are two metric threaded bolt holes which are used for accessories.  After assembly was attached to bike frame, I covered the hose clamps with PVC electrical tape.

I retapped them out to 1/4" by 20 and ran threaded bolts throught the conduit to the frame for additional support.  You will have to cut the bolts to length as to not to interfere with the derailer.  I fashioned a hitch block out of some leftover pressure treated lumber and ran a 2" pipe clamp for the bicycle portion of the hitch assembly.  This assembly is attached to the 1/2" metal electrical conduit by sheet metal screws from the sides and to the top.

On the trailer, the Pelican kayak is strapped down with standard 1" webbing tie down and the bow is held in place with a bungee.

My son is now able to ride over to the lake (after his chores are done) and enjoy kayaking to his heart's content.  (Did I mention there is a "small" mountain between our house and the lake?)  The weight of the trailer is only a few pounds (aluminum crutches weigh next to nothing) and his kayak is but 26 pounds at most with oars, PFD and miscellaneous equipment.

Com-Pac 16 and 16-2

Com-Pac 16 and 16-2

In 1974, the Hutchins Company wanted to "build a small but highly efficient sailboat".  They contacted famed yacht designer Clark Mills to design a sixteen foot sailboat whose hull's compound curves provided strength and stability, creating a seaworthy craft with a keel designed to hydronamically lift the moving hull out of the water.  The sailboat had to have easy rigging and to be a true trailerable sailboat.  This design culminated in the Com-Pac 16.  In later years the Com-Pac 16 would grow 11 inches with the addition of a bow sprit/pulpit and become the Com-Pac 16-2.  I have had the privilege to own both, VERY SPOILED (CP16) and RELENTLESS (CP16-2).

The Com-Pac 16 and 16-2 specifications:

LOA 16'0" (CP) and 16'11" (CP2)  LWL 14'0"  Beam 6'0"  Draft 18" (Fixed Shoal Keel)   Displ 1,100 lbs  Ballast 450 lbs  Sail Area 115 sq ft (Main and Jib) 155% Genoa 60 sq ft 

The difference of the two was the additional 11" bow sprit which placed the forward stay before the bow which changed the handling characteristics significantly.  Now with the jib more forward, turning improved as well as overall handling.  Raising the 18 ft mast is easily handled by one person.  Once the mast is attached to the tabernacle, one just walks the mast forward, attaches the forward stay, the mast is set except for tensioning of all three stays.  The Com-Pac 16-2 came with a few more options but the most noticeable was the tan bark sails.  They are far better on someone's eyes than the white sails on a sunny day.

With minimal draft of 18" the Com-Pac's are easy to get close to the shoreline and exploring areas that one could not in a sailboat with a greater draft.  Needless to say, launching and retrieving is relatively easy and you are dealing with a sailboat weighing a mere 1100 lbs.  I added to trailer tongue extensions to both trailers.

The Com-Pac's have durable aluminum kick up rudders so one never has to worry about delamination like you would with a fiberglass covered rudder.  This great when "gunkholing".

The Hutchins Company is famous for their quality and the high level of accessories used on their products.  From the teak cockpit grate, hatch boards to the tiller, the wood joinery is beautiful.  Just enough to keep you busy in the off season. 

Either a 3 or 4 hp outboard was sufficient to provide power to the hulls when the wind died out or during launching and retrieving.

Com-Pac's have quite an owner following. Considering the Com-Pac 16's were in production for 25 years, there are quite a few on the water.  On their trailer, they easily fit in an average size garage.  As a trailerable, your sailing grounds are endless.  A great book of adventures you can enjoy with a Com-Pac or other pocket cruisers is "HANDBOOK of TRAILER SAILING" by Robert F. Burgess.  Mr. Burgess chronicles his many trips in his Com-Pac 16 and proves what one can accomplish in a 16 foot sailboat.

The original goal to make a high quality, seaworthy sailboat that is easy to sail, was definitley accomplished by Hutchins in the Com-Pac's 16 and 16-2.