Com-Pac 16 and 16-2

Com-Pac 16 and 16-2

In 1974, the Hutchins Company wanted to "build a small but highly efficient sailboat".  They contacted famed yacht designer Clark Mills to design a sixteen foot sailboat whose hull's compound curves provided strength and stability, creating a seaworthy craft with a keel designed to hydronamically lift the moving hull out of the water.  The sailboat had to have easy rigging and to be a true trailerable sailboat.  This design culminated in the Com-Pac 16.  In later years the Com-Pac 16 would grow 11 inches with the addition of a bow sprit/pulpit and become the Com-Pac 16-2.  I have had the privilege to own both, VERY SPOILED (CP16) and RELENTLESS (CP16-2).

The Com-Pac 16 and 16-2 specifications:

LOA 16'0" (CP) and 16'11" (CP2)  LWL 14'0"  Beam 6'0"  Draft 18" (Fixed Shoal Keel)   Displ 1,100 lbs  Ballast 450 lbs  Sail Area 115 sq ft (Main and Jib) 155% Genoa 60 sq ft 

The difference of the two was the additional 11" bow sprit which placed the forward stay before the bow which changed the handling characteristics significantly.  Now with the jib more forward, turning improved as well as overall handling.  Raising the 18 ft mast is easily handled by one person.  Once the mast is attached to the tabernacle, one just walks the mast forward, attaches the forward stay, the mast is set except for tensioning of all three stays.  The Com-Pac 16-2 came with a few more options but the most noticeable was the tan bark sails.  They are far better on someone's eyes than the white sails on a sunny day.

With minimal draft of 18" the Com-Pac's are easy to get close to the shoreline and exploring areas that one could not in a sailboat with a greater draft.  Needless to say, launching and retrieving is relatively easy and you are dealing with a sailboat weighing a mere 1100 lbs.  I added to trailer tongue extensions to both trailers.

The Com-Pac's have durable aluminum kick up rudders so one never has to worry about delamination like you would with a fiberglass covered rudder.  This great when "gunkholing".

The Hutchins Company is famous for their quality and the high level of accessories used on their products.  From the teak cockpit grate, hatch boards to the tiller, the wood joinery is beautiful.  Just enough to keep you busy in the off season. 

Either a 3 or 4 hp outboard was sufficient to provide power to the hulls when the wind died out or during launching and retrieving.

Com-Pac's have quite an owner following. Considering the Com-Pac 16's were in production for 25 years, there are quite a few on the water.  On their trailer, they easily fit in an average size garage.  As a trailerable, your sailing grounds are endless.  A great book of adventures you can enjoy with a Com-Pac or other pocket cruisers is "HANDBOOK of TRAILER SAILING" by Robert F. Burgess.  Mr. Burgess chronicles his many trips in his Com-Pac 16 and proves what one can accomplish in a 16 foot sailboat.

The original goal to make a high quality, seaworthy sailboat that is easy to sail, was definitley accomplished by Hutchins in the Com-Pac's 16 and 16-2.

Pressure Washer Using A Gravity Fed Water Supply

I like to use a gas powered Pressure Washer to keep my sailboat and dock clean during the sailing season.  Unfortunately, there is no water supply on the dock but I am surrounded by a fresh water lake.  I came up with a very simple way to supply lake water to the Pressure Water without the use of any battery or gas powered water pump.  The lake water is supplied to the Pressure Washer is gravity fed.

The Parts List:
1) Gas Powered Pressure Washer (2500 PSI)
2) 5 Gallon Buckets (3 each) (Someone is always tossing them out.)
3) Attwood Bait Aereator (Remove the spray head.)
4) Garden Hose Quick Disconnect
5) 5/8" ID Plastic Tubing (6 to 8 feet)
6) Plumbers Putty (Optional)
7) Fiberglass Window Screen (18" x 18")
8) Bungie Cord

Tools Required:
1) Drill
2) 1" Speed Bit

Here's what the gravity fed Pressure Washer System looks like completed:

 Drill and 1" Speed Bit:

 Attwood Bait Aereator:

 Garden hose quick disconnect:

(The quick disconnect attached to Pressure Washer)

 Attwood Bait Aereator with spray head removed:

 Drill 1" hole in 5 gallon bucket 2" above bottom:

(This allows any sediment to sink to bottom.)

 Aereator placed thru the side of 5 gallon bucket:

 Inside view of bucket with Aereator thru wall:

 Plumber's Putty is an option to prevent leaks around Aereator:

 The 5 gallon bucket (feeder bucket) with the Aereator is placed upon a turned over 5 gallon bucket.  This provides just enough "drop" for the water.  A 5/8" ID (6 to 8 feet) clear plastic tubing connects the Aereator to the Pressure Washer.  No hose clamps are used:

 Fill the "feeder bucket".  The Pressure Water needs to be primed with a water flow.  Make sure there is no air in the plastic tubing as this initially starves the Pressure Washer on start up:

 Start the Pressure Washer and get ready to clean!   It takes 4 minutes at 2500 PSI to empty 4 gallons of water so you'll need a second person (It's great to have sons!) using the third bucket to keep the "feeder bucket" full of water.  (When I get home I run the household water through the Pressure Washer):

 Place fiberglass window screen atop of the "feeder bucket" and fasten with a bungie cord.  This will keep any debris "scooped up from the lake water" from clogging the Pressure Washer.

It's not complicated and costs very little providing you already own a Pressure Washer.  Best of all it works!



Winter Frame

Winter frame made from PVC conduit.

Winter storage is over and it's time to unwrap the sailboat for this year's sailing.  Over winter, PERFECTION, a Starwind 223, has been protected from the elements by being under a heavy duty poly tarp which was supported by a light weight framework made from 10 foot lengths of PVC conduit (not PVC waterline).  PVC conduit is malleable yet very strong.  The frame supported the winter winds, snow and the spring rains.  The framework is made from two sizes of PVC conduit.  The outer perimeter of the framework is made from 3/4" PVC conduit.  Two 3/4" PVC 90 degree elbows are used at the corners of the stern.  The 1/2" PVC conduit cross members, beginning at the stern, are two feet apart.  The two center line sections are also made from 1/2" PVC conduit.    Beginning at the stern, they run parallel with the mast and are 2 foot on either side and narrow at the bow.  All piece parts are held together by drilling 1/4" holes, fastened with 1/4" plastic ties pulled through and covered with PVC electrical tape.  The tape protects the tarp from wearing out before its time.  The complete framework assembly is fastened to the life lines and stanchions by the same electrical tape.  Each PVC conduit section comes with its own molded male female couplings which allows for breaking it down for summer storage.

 Installed with inner poly tarp.

Another view installed.

Bow view of PVC conduit winter frame.

Stern view.

View of cross member joints

Center line and cross member joint.

Stern with 3/4" 90 degree elbow.

Separation of sections.

Sections stored.

Sailboat Trailer Stabilizer Jacks

There is nothing unnerving as to climb aboard a sailboat that is not attached to a tow vehicle, and having the front of the trailer lift off the ground.  To prevent this, I've installed stabilizer jacks just rear of the axle on either side of the trailer.  They provide a rock solid base to stabilize the trailer during mast raising and lowering.  They are great for an all purpose jack when you are on the road and have a flat tire.  During winter storage, they take the weight off the axle and tires.  You can easily stabilize several thousand pounds of sailboat with just a few cranks.  A few more and you can lift the wheels off the ground. 

Stowed, they are out of the way:

Pull the pin and they swing down ready to stabilize or jack the trailer:

Another view:

I purchased the two Reese Industrial Top Wind with Foot and Mount Plate jacks from Tractor Supply for less than $30 each.  They were easy to bolt on to the trailer frame.  My only caution is that you locate their mounting so when not in use, the pin is pulled and they can flip out of the way.  Keep them oiled and they will last a long time.

Trailer Tongue Extension

For many years I have used a Trailer Tongue Extension of my design to assist in the launching and retrieving of my sailboats.  In 1999, I decided to share my idea in Cruising World Magazine.  Here is the reprint:

The extension has never failed me over the years.  It has kept my tow vehicles dry while putting the trailer far enough in the water to allow launching and retrieval of my sailboats a breeze.  It does draw a lot of attention from those wishing they had one of their own.

Stanchion Eye Bolts Used for Additional Hardpoint Attachments

Life Line and Pulpit Stanchions are normally fastened through the deck with four stainless steel bolts.  For the bolts along the gunwhale, I have replaced them with stainless steel eyebolts of the same diameter of the bolt.  Placing the eyebolts near the gunwhale reduces any tripping hazard.

The purpose is to create additional attachment points from snaps to lines from accesories.

I make sure there is an aluminum backing plate of sufficient thickness on the underside of the stanchions to handle any loads that might be experienced.  Along with an eyebolt, two flat washers, a lock washer and nut (one could use a self locking nut), and silicon are used for each installation.

I have found this minor change in hardware to have been invaluable at times when an attachment point is needed.