Kayak Trailer for a Bicycle (Mountain Bike) Made from Aluminum Crutches

My oldest son loves kayaking and bicycling.  There is a beautiful lake not far from our home that he often frequents with his kayak or bicycles to and from.  For him to kayak, it ultimately requires waiting for his mom or me to provide transportation, tossing the kayak atop the car, strapping it down and driving him over there.  It's not that we don't want to, but for lean, muscular teenager, waiting for transportation from mom or dad, can be frustrating.

I built him a kayak trailer from used aluminum crutches (2 pair (4 crutches)) purchased from the Goodwill.  They were purchased for less than $4 a pair.  Aluminum crutches are consist of 1" and 1/2" diameter tubing.  The crutches were taken apart and all piece parts saved.  One pair was bent with a tube/pipe bender to make the main frame portion.  Wheel and pneumatic tire assemblies were bought from Harbor Freight for another $4 each.  The trailer tongue was fashioned from a crutch and bolted to the main frame.  A 1" diameter dowell was inserted into the end of the tongue, so a 1" diameter eye bolt could be screwed into the end to form the trailer portion of the hitch.

The spare parts from the crutch were used as padded supports on the main frame as shown.  An old bow pad was drilled with a 1" spade bit to allow it to be slid down the trailer tongue for additioal support of the kayak.

Two pieces of 1/2 " metal electrical conduit 24" long were placed on the lower portion of the bicycle frame.  To hold in place I used stainless steel 2" adjustable hose clamps (2 each).  Above either side the the rear axle of the bicycle frame are two metric threaded bolt holes which are used for accessories.  After assembly was attached to bike frame, I covered the hose clamps with PVC electrical tape.

I retapped them out to 1/4" by 20 and ran threaded bolts throught the conduit to the frame for additional support.  You will have to cut the bolts to length as to not to interfere with the derailer.  I fashioned a hitch block out of some leftover pressure treated lumber and ran a 2" pipe clamp for the bicycle portion of the hitch assembly.  This assembly is attached to the 1/2" metal electrical conduit by sheet metal screws from the sides and to the top.

On the trailer, the Pelican kayak is strapped down with standard 1" webbing tie down and the bow is held in place with a bungee.

My son is now able to ride over to the lake (after his chores are done) and enjoy kayaking to his heart's content.  (Did I mention there is a "small" mountain between our house and the lake?)  The weight of the trailer is only a few pounds (aluminum crutches weigh next to nothing) and his kayak is but 26 pounds at most with oars, PFD and miscellaneous equipment.

Com-Pac 16 and 16-2

Com-Pac 16 and 16-2

In 1974, the Hutchins Company wanted to "build a small but highly efficient sailboat".  They contacted famed yacht designer Clark Mills to design a sixteen foot sailboat whose hull's compound curves provided strength and stability, creating a seaworthy craft with a keel designed to hydronamically lift the moving hull out of the water.  The sailboat had to have easy rigging and to be a true trailerable sailboat.  This design culminated in the Com-Pac 16.  In later years the Com-Pac 16 would grow 11 inches with the addition of a bow sprit/pulpit and become the Com-Pac 16-2.  I have had the privilege to own both, VERY SPOILED (CP16) and RELENTLESS (CP16-2).

The Com-Pac 16 and 16-2 specifications:

LOA 16'0" (CP) and 16'11" (CP2)  LWL 14'0"  Beam 6'0"  Draft 18" (Fixed Shoal Keel)   Displ 1,100 lbs  Ballast 450 lbs  Sail Area 115 sq ft (Main and Jib) 155% Genoa 60 sq ft 

The difference of the two was the additional 11" bow sprit which placed the forward stay before the bow which changed the handling characteristics significantly.  Now with the jib more forward, turning improved as well as overall handling.  Raising the 18 ft mast is easily handled by one person.  Once the mast is attached to the tabernacle, one just walks the mast forward, attaches the forward stay, the mast is set except for tensioning of all three stays.  The Com-Pac 16-2 came with a few more options but the most noticeable was the tan bark sails.  They are far better on someone's eyes than the white sails on a sunny day.

With minimal draft of 18" the Com-Pac's are easy to get close to the shoreline and exploring areas that one could not in a sailboat with a greater draft.  Needless to say, launching and retrieving is relatively easy and you are dealing with a sailboat weighing a mere 1100 lbs.  I added to trailer tongue extensions to both trailers.

The Com-Pac's have durable aluminum kick up rudders so one never has to worry about delamination like you would with a fiberglass covered rudder.  This great when "gunkholing".

The Hutchins Company is famous for their quality and the high level of accessories used on their products.  From the teak cockpit grate, hatch boards to the tiller, the wood joinery is beautiful.  Just enough to keep you busy in the off season. 

Either a 3 or 4 hp outboard was sufficient to provide power to the hulls when the wind died out or during launching and retrieving.

Com-Pac's have quite an owner following. Considering the Com-Pac 16's were in production for 25 years, there are quite a few on the water.  On their trailer, they easily fit in an average size garage.  As a trailerable, your sailing grounds are endless.  A great book of adventures you can enjoy with a Com-Pac or other pocket cruisers is "HANDBOOK of TRAILER SAILING" by Robert F. Burgess.  Mr. Burgess chronicles his many trips in his Com-Pac 16 and proves what one can accomplish in a 16 foot sailboat.

The original goal to make a high quality, seaworthy sailboat that is easy to sail, was definitley accomplished by Hutchins in the Com-Pac's 16 and 16-2.

Pressure Washer Using A Gravity Fed Water Supply

I like to use a gas powered Pressure Washer to keep my sailboat and dock clean during the sailing season.  Unfortunately, there is no water supply on the dock but I am surrounded by a fresh water lake.  I came up with a very simple way to supply lake water to the Pressure Water without the use of any battery or gas powered water pump.  The lake water is supplied to the Pressure Washer is gravity fed.

The Parts List:
1) Gas Powered Pressure Washer (2500 PSI)
2) 5 Gallon Buckets (3 each) (Someone is always tossing them out.)
3) Attwood Bait Aereator (Remove the spray head.)
4) Garden Hose Quick Disconnect
5) 5/8" ID Plastic Tubing (6 to 8 feet)
6) Plumbers Putty (Optional)
7) Fiberglass Window Screen (18" x 18")
8) Bungie Cord

Tools Required:
1) Drill
2) 1" Speed Bit

Here's what the gravity fed Pressure Washer System looks like completed:

 Drill and 1" Speed Bit:

 Attwood Bait Aereator:

 Garden hose quick disconnect:

(The quick disconnect attached to Pressure Washer)

 Attwood Bait Aereator with spray head removed:

 Drill 1" hole in 5 gallon bucket 2" above bottom:

(This allows any sediment to sink to bottom.)

 Aereator placed thru the side of 5 gallon bucket:

 Inside view of bucket with Aereator thru wall:

 Plumber's Putty is an option to prevent leaks around Aereator:

 The 5 gallon bucket (feeder bucket) with the Aereator is placed upon a turned over 5 gallon bucket.  This provides just enough "drop" for the water.  A 5/8" ID (6 to 8 feet) clear plastic tubing connects the Aereator to the Pressure Washer.  No hose clamps are used:

 Fill the "feeder bucket".  The Pressure Water needs to be primed with a water flow.  Make sure there is no air in the plastic tubing as this initially starves the Pressure Washer on start up:

 Start the Pressure Washer and get ready to clean!   It takes 4 minutes at 2500 PSI to empty 4 gallons of water so you'll need a second person (It's great to have sons!) using the third bucket to keep the "feeder bucket" full of water.  (When I get home I run the household water through the Pressure Washer):

 Place fiberglass window screen atop of the "feeder bucket" and fasten with a bungie cord.  This will keep any debris "scooped up from the lake water" from clogging the Pressure Washer.

It's not complicated and costs very little providing you already own a Pressure Washer.  Best of all it works!



Winter Frame

Winter frame made from PVC conduit.

Winter storage is over and it's time to unwrap the sailboat for this year's sailing.  Over winter, PERFECTION, a Starwind 223, has been protected from the elements by being under a heavy duty poly tarp which was supported by a light weight framework made from 10 foot lengths of PVC conduit (not PVC waterline).  PVC conduit is malleable yet very strong.  The frame supported the winter winds, snow and the spring rains.  The framework is made from two sizes of PVC conduit.  The outer perimeter of the framework is made from 3/4" PVC conduit.  Two 3/4" PVC 90 degree elbows are used at the corners of the stern.  The 1/2" PVC conduit cross members, beginning at the stern, are two feet apart.  The two center line sections are also made from 1/2" PVC conduit.    Beginning at the stern, they run parallel with the mast and are 2 foot on either side and narrow at the bow.  All piece parts are held together by drilling 1/4" holes, fastened with 1/4" plastic ties pulled through and covered with PVC electrical tape.  The tape protects the tarp from wearing out before its time.  The complete framework assembly is fastened to the life lines and stanchions by the same electrical tape.  Each PVC conduit section comes with its own molded male female couplings which allows for breaking it down for summer storage.

 Installed with inner poly tarp.

Another view installed.

Bow view of PVC conduit winter frame.

Stern view.

View of cross member joints

Center line and cross member joint.

Stern with 3/4" 90 degree elbow.

Separation of sections.

Sections stored.

Sailboat Trailer Stabilizer Jacks

There is nothing unnerving as to climb aboard a sailboat that is not attached to a tow vehicle, and having the front of the trailer lift off the ground.  To prevent this, I've installed stabilizer jacks just rear of the axle on either side of the trailer.  They provide a rock solid base to stabilize the trailer during mast raising and lowering.  They are great for an all purpose jack when you are on the road and have a flat tire.  During winter storage, they take the weight off the axle and tires.  You can easily stabilize several thousand pounds of sailboat with just a few cranks.  A few more and you can lift the wheels off the ground. 

Stowed, they are out of the way:

Pull the pin and they swing down ready to stabilize or jack the trailer:

Another view:

I purchased the two Reese Industrial Top Wind with Foot and Mount Plate jacks from Tractor Supply for less than $30 each.  They were easy to bolt on to the trailer frame.  My only caution is that you locate their mounting so when not in use, the pin is pulled and they can flip out of the way.  Keep them oiled and they will last a long time.

Trailer Tongue Extension

For many years I have used a Trailer Tongue Extension of my design to assist in the launching and retrieving of my sailboats.  In 1999, I decided to share my idea in Cruising World Magazine.  Here is the reprint:

The extension has never failed me over the years.  It has kept my tow vehicles dry while putting the trailer far enough in the water to allow launching and retrieval of my sailboats a breeze.  It does draw a lot of attention from those wishing they had one of their own.

Stanchion Eye Bolts Used for Additional Hardpoint Attachments

Life Line and Pulpit Stanchions are normally fastened through the deck with four stainless steel bolts.  For the bolts along the gunwhale, I have replaced them with stainless steel eyebolts of the same diameter of the bolt.  Placing the eyebolts near the gunwhale reduces any tripping hazard.

The purpose is to create additional attachment points from snaps to lines from accesories.

I make sure there is an aluminum backing plate of sufficient thickness on the underside of the stanchions to handle any loads that might be experienced.  Along with an eyebolt, two flat washers, a lock washer and nut (one could use a self locking nut), and silicon are used for each installation.

I have found this minor change in hardware to have been invaluable at times when an attachment point is needed.

Starwind 223

Starwind 223

My Starwind 223 is named PERFECTION.  She was designed by Cortland Steck for Wellcraft Marine (the powerboat manufacturer) and later built by Rebel Industries, this was a step forward in design. With its 8 foot 6 inch beam and 22 foot 3 inch length, the Starwind 223 was one of the first trailerable cruisers to take full advantage of revised highway regulations. Its relatively large cockpit, crisp lines, a  performance/cruiser and the simple yet luxurious interior layout encompass the well thought out design.

The Starwind 223 specifications:

LOA 22'3"  LWL 19'4"  Beam 8'6"  Draft Board Up 22"  Board Down 5'0"  Displacement 2435 lbs

Ballast 700 lbs  Sail Area 220 sq ft

Below deck, PERFECTION's generous beam is evident. Steck opted for an open funtional design. The 7 foot 9 inch settee and quarterberths extend well into the cabin and proves more than ample for crew and guests. Placing the wood-bottomed after cushions between the settees forms a 6 foot 6 inch by 4 foot 4 inch double athwartships berth. It is one of the largest on a trailerable 22 plus footer and its location amidships means an easy motion at anchor. This arrangement completely disrupts traffic flow between the cockpit and the head (located under the vee berth), but the berth gets considerable use when the boat is anchored in secluded coves.

The large main cabin and 7 foot cockpit has a vee berth forward, adequate for a couple of children or adults. Unlike many boats advertised to "sleep four," the Starwind 223 has the rare virtue of being very comfortable for a couple. Too often, when a couple sail a small four berth cruiser, they must sleep in marginal berths and squeeze into tiny dinettes which cannot easily be modified because of the almost universal use of drop-in molds. The open accommodations offer a welcome change to that kind of thinking.

A simple cabin finish is typical of this class of boats. PERFECTION's cabin has an elegant interior. Abaft the port bulkhead, is a small galley area with sink and with storage below. The chart table folds down over the countertop. The open hanging locker to starboard is lined with cedar. Touch it lightly with sandpaper once in a while, and when you close your eyes, you might forget you're aboard a fiberglass boat. Carpeting lines the cabin ceiling, a pleasant contrast to slick gelcoat headliners.

PERFECTION's ventilation is superb. The companionway and forward hatches are little short of gigantic. The companionway hatch cover flips up and forward against the mast giving unlimited headroom in most of the main cabin.

Getting around on deck is relatively easy. Although the toerails are molded humps in the deck, the lifeline stanchions are very strong for this type of boat. Reinforcing bails of heavy stainless steel rod extend up from the bases and wrap around the stainless stanchions. A transom-mounted swim ladder folds up to the stern pulpit. The side decks are wide and the molded-in sand nonskid pattern offers good traction without rasping the soles off your topsiders. Deck hardware is backed up with 1/4 inch aluminum plate glassed into the laminate. Rising from inboard chainplates, the shrouds interfere with a trip forward (as they do on most boats). Contemporary thinking seems to dictate that tighter sheeting angles and better windward performance are worth the inconvenience. A self draining anchor locker in the forepeak keeps the anchor and ground tackle out of the cockpit lockers and ready for use.

The Starwind 223 was laid up by hand (no chopped strand) with mat, roving, and Coremat in amounts sufficient to please the meticulous boatbuilder. The hull is smooth and fair, and the tooling would be a credit to a more expensive boat. All fiberglass surfaces are appropriately stiff with one of the best gel coats to touch the water.  True quality throughout. 

PERFECTION has a traditional shoal keel/centerboard. Its trunk doesn't intrude into the cabin, and because the ballast is in the keel, the unballasted fiberglass centerboard raises easily and does not produce wild changes in the boat's stability. You really can sail this boat in shoal water since its draft is only 22 inches.  My preference is to sail with the centerboard up.  It's more exciting to have the gunwhales close to the water.

Setting the mast for the Starwind 223 for sailing takes a hour or so and that includes launching.  Retrieving and packing up is about the same.  It's not a draw back to the Starwind 223, but she is a bigger boat and a little more complicated.  It is a two person operation but a single person could do it with little difficulty.  You are dealing with a longer mast, weight of the furling genoa, attaching and tensioning six stays (which one stay always seem to get hooked on something while raising) antennas and assorted accessories.  Once she is in the water, she is like stepping into a luxury home that rocks and rolls from the waves.

Under sail, she is fast and predictable, if unexceptional, on all points. Even with the board retracted (the pennant is easily reached in the cockpit), the boat fights to stay on its feet and her helm exhibits no bad manners. The high quality sails and the moderate aspect ratio rig are forgiving of inattention; sail controls are basic and straightforward.  Lazy Jacks and a boom vang were later accessories that I added.  The main and furling 150 genoa are nearly automatic in their operation.  In later years, I added a jib to the sailing inventory.  I find myself using the jib in lieu of the furling genoa.  I find dropping the jib as easy as furling the genoa.

Accessories and changes added have been many.  Every winter, my refit season, the ideas from the previous season are considered and many are added to her.  Ideas such as a tiller tamer and deck hardware to allow all control lines to lead back to the cockpit for easier control of the sailing surfaces.  The running lines are all color coded.  I use variations of red and green lines for Port and Starboard control of the sails.  A cockpit tent offers relief from the sun while at anchor.  To aid in raising or lowering the mast, a bridle system of my design, is easily installed and removed.  The bridle controls the side to side lateral motion while raising and lowering the mast.  An additional winch was installed on an extended trailer winch post for the mast raising or lowering process which takes about two minutes on a bad day.  The electronics suite consist of a compass, depth detector, VHF radio, LORAN, GPS, a marine stereo and iPod with six speakers round out the entertainment system.  I added a master battery switch cutting off all circuitry for security purposes when the boat is left till the next sail.  PERFECTION has two breaker panels, one at the navigation center and a second at the main hatch.  I split up the electronics to make the breakers easily accesssed.  Those electronics that I use from the cockpit are wired to the aft breaker panel below the hatchway entrance.  The electronics needed for the nav center are wired to the forward breaker panel.  The electrical system has a common ground.  I ran two heavy gauged insulated copper cables from the port and starboard stays to the water to act as grounds for lightning protection.  The last 12 inches of the cables are bare wire.  This part of the copper cable is under the surface of the water.  The original two piece hatch board has been replaced by a three piece for easier storage.  The top hatch board can be replaced with a hatch board with a large screen installed.  A tiller extension allows for rudder control from any where in the cockpit.

A 9.9hp Yamaha four stroke, High Thrust, electric start outboard propels PERFECTION in and out of port or when the wind dies out.  The ouboard is nearly silent when running.  It has never let me down.  The alternator keeps the battery at a full charge.  The Yamaha is more than enough power especially with the High Thrust Prop.  I ran some speed runs and found that anymore than half throttle does not increase hull speed significantly if at all.  One is just wasting a lot more fuel being used at the same top speed.  A six gallon external fuel tank is more than sufficient for a half season or more of sailing.

The Harding single axle galvanized trailer with its bunk board style cradle is perfect for the Starwind 223.  The trailer uses a surge braking system.  I did install a 12 foot sliding tongue extension.  The tow vehicle stays dry during launching and retrieving.  Bearing Buddies are a must.  I also added two cranking foldup support jacks at the trailer's rear.  The stabilizer jacks raise the weight off the tires and springs during winter storage, tire changing and added stability when raising or lowering the mast.

Seasonal maintenance consist of inspection of all running gear, clevis pins, cotter rings, cables, life lines, stays, sail maintenance, electrical inspection, outboard maintenance, replacement of fuel lines, polishing with a good wax and bottom coating.  After owning her for the years I have, maintenance is a therapy that I enjoy.

PERFECTION has been mine for many years that are full of sailing memories.  Without fail, there is always one sail a season that is etched in my mind that was the sail of the year.  She is pure luxury inside and has a beautiful silhouette at the dock or on the water.  To me she is the "Mercedes Benz" of her class.  Her sharp hull lines cut through the water while the white sails full of wind tests your ability and periodically wear out your leather sailing gloves.

SeaWard Fox 17

SeaWard Fox 17

“ARROGANCE”, a 1990 Seaward Fox 17, by Starboard Yachts Company, is a beautiful sea worthy pocket cruiser that I feel was ever produced to date.  The SeaWard Fox 17 lineage began years ago as the Slipper 17.  The "Fox" has a very classic "nor’easterner" look to her... eight feet wide at the beam (nearly half as wide as she is long creating great stability), lots of curve to the shear, and some decent tumblehome back aft.   She'll handle any weather while allowing one to remain confident and safe.  With the bow pulpit, an extra two feet are added to her overall length of 19 foot plus.  Having owned a Com Pac 16 and a 16/2, the SeaWard Fox 17 is a much better choice.  Arrogance has the look of a traditional “cat boat” but retains the sail configuration of a sloop with a main sail, jib and for some excitement, a spinaker.  With the main and jib, you have 170 sq ft of sail area powering a boat weighing a mere 1300 lbs of which 425 lbs are ballast.  Being the eye catcher that she is, I spend more time on the launch ramp explaining her attributes to the many curious sailors than it takes to launch her.  One person can easily rig, launch, sail and retrieve her.  I bought the for a several reasons, her unique lines and for one day, my retirement boat.

With the sloop configuration for sails, three stays and a single pin at the mast tabernacle holds the mast up.  Both side stays need only be set once.  Only the front stay is attached and removed when one raises or lowers the mast.  The mast is relatively light.  Tightening of the forward stay turn buckle is easily accomplished in a few seconds.  The attachment of the boom and sails but a few minutes more.  No need for a boom vang as the center car traveler controls the main.  The jib is a free setting sail and is easily brought down and stowed in the jib bag.  The furling main sail has full battens and they are tensioned to form a “wing”.  I installed sail slides versus the use of the rope slide configuration.  This avoided the “binding” I sometimes encountered early on raising and lowering the sail.  The Lazy Jack Lines, I installed, provides for an uncluttered cockpit when removing the sail cover and sail ties or dropping the mainsail when returning to port.

Under sail, I have found the SeaWard Fox needs to have more weight in the bow for optimum performance.  I tend to store some heavier items in the forward portion of the vee berth and sit middle cockpit.  The “cat boat” style rudder is fixed but allows for very quick decisive turns.  She regains speed quickly when coming about.  Having a free setting jib, the only sail controls one needs to set is for the main.  Later models, produced by Hake (SeaWard) Yachts, came with a single carbon fiber mast, making the SeaWard Fox a true cat rigged boat.  Unlike a cat with nine lives, the new design was short lived and so ended the Seaward Fox production.  Hake Yachts produces some wonderful sailboats of very high standard for sailors wanting a unique combination of quality, performance and the versatility.  They truly have a dedicated following of owners of past and present models, treating them with great respect.  Additional information on the "vintage" SeaWard Fox can be found at: http://www.seawardyachts.com/vintage.html

ARROGANCE has a fixed wing shoal draft keel.  No mechanical issues with a drop down/swing center board.  The wing holds the hull in the water when heeling.  Because of her wide beam and the winged keel, there is never a worry about going over.  I've had many exciting runs with the gunwhales near the water.  I find myself challenging her "to go over".  The winged keel does not pose an issue when launching and retrieving.  She has a draft of 19 inches which allows one to get pretty close to the shoreline.

The cockpit is spacious with comfortable seat cushions and nice back support. There is plenty of leg room for all onboard.  I modified the sail control lines and they lead to the cockpit.  No more leaving the cockpit to raise or drop the sails.  An easily read compass and fish finder/depth detector are the only electronics in the cockpit.  I replaced the single cabin hatchway board with a two piece oak board hatchway (easier storage) and added a screened vent to improve air flow in the cabin.  A tiller extension comes in handy when moving forward.

The cabin interior is a lacking the "full wood decor" I have in my Starwind 223 but it is very clean and functional.  Arrogance has two long cushioned bunks stretching under the cockpit and a stepped vee berth.  Headroom is a drawback but considering you are out there to sail the cabin has all the requirements that one needs.  Plenty storage is under both side bunks and especially under the V-berth.  The forward hatch is smaller than one would like but it does allow for excellent ventilation.  There is a molded sink in the cabin.  I relocated breaker panel so it’s more accessible.  While relocating, I decided to upgrade the panel.

Several 12 volt receptacles were added also.  I changed over to LED interior and exterior lighting.  The battery is a 12 volt gel cell stored aft of the hatchway entrance and under the cockpit with a "trickle charger" attached.  I installed a 120 volt AC system so if you are dockside or in winter storage for conveinence.  I also have a solar panel that is easily plugged into the electrical system to keep the battery charged while sailing or at dockside.  A VHF radio is easily accessible from the cockpit or in the cabin.  The porta-potty is just aft of the cabin hatchway so it is also out of sight and out of the way.  Between the outer and inner hulls is foam flotation.  There is no way you are going to sink her.  I did add several access hatches to access between the two hulls and for running the additional electrical wiring.

She came equipped with a Honda 2hp four stroke outboard.  It is a great outboard, problem free and enviromentally friendly.  However, with no reverse gear, one has to be ready to swing the engine 180 degrees for reverse and be very nimble holding onto the throttle.  This can be an issue when operating in close quarters and timing of your movements is critical.  This year I am switching to my classic Evinrude 4.5hp two stroke.  Weight is a little more than the Honda but the added power and convenience of a traditional F-N-R should make up for the difference.  The Honda has an internal tank so one needs to carry a spare fuel tank.  The Evinrude utilizes an external three gallon fuel tank. It will be an experiment I am looking forward to.  If a "green lake" is my destination, I have a six speed, 47lb thrust Minn Kota that is easily installed.

The Performance trailer with its low profile wide tires makes towing, launching and retrieving a breeze.  “Bearing buddies” are on the hubs.  I installed an eight foot long sliding tongue extension of two inch square tubing.  My tow vehicle never gets wet on the ramp.

When transporting or storing, the mast rests on the mast support between the bow pulpit and the taller mast support in the cockpit.  The cockpit mast support has a roller at its top.  The angle is such allows one to walk the mast to the mast tabernacle without any obstacles in the way.  Both mast supports are removed before launching and stored in my tow vehicle.

ARROGANCE is a definite eye catcher on land or in the water and above all, she's a classic great performance pocket cruiser ready to take on any sea state.